Touchdown in Trondheim was…a bit of a shock to the system.
After melting in a ridiculous 35°C heatwave in London, we stepped off the plane in our shorts, straight into Arctic winds – and into our fur-lined parkas faster than you can say “why didn’t I pack socks in my carry-on?”
But I didn’t mind one bit. I was here for something I’ve dreamed of since I was seven and unwrapped a cuddly polar bear on Christmas morning: a real-life polar cruise.
Yes, I’m in Norway with Atlas Ocean Voyages on a 12-night expedition from Trondheim to Longyearbyen and I’m crossing everything I’ve got that I’ll meet one of my white fluffy heroes.
🌊 FIRST IMPRESSIONS: The Floating Nordic Hug
Boarding the Atlas World Traveller felt like walking into a Nordic cocoon of calm: sleek, modern, impossibly cosy.
At just 129 metres and 198 passengers, it’s more stylish yacht than cruise ship, with Scandi-chic interiors, a glowing Dome Lounge for 270° views, two restaurants, a spa, a boutique, pool, gym and lounges that beg for a hot chocolate and a blanket.
Stepping into our stateroom felt like entering a modern Scandinavian hotel room, except with ocean views and better closet space.
The palette was all calm neutrals: soft greys, crisp whites and warm wood accents that played beautifully off the ever-changing light filtering in through the balcony.
This stateroom doesn’t waste an inch. Two large wardrobes with soft-close drawers, a desk with USB and Euro outlets, and clever nightstands with hidden compartments made it easy to stay organised, even with all the layers and expedition gear.
There is a very spacious bathroom with rainfall shower, three spa jets and beautiful L’Occitane goodies. And hallelujah – a kettle and coffee machine. I may be in the Arctic, but I’m not giving up my morning tea.
I was a bit nervous – this would be my longest cruise ever. But after poking around, I had a sneaky feeling I’d be very happy calling this little suite home.
🚢 A TALE OF TWO CRUISES: “The Bipolar Voyage”
This itinerary isn’t your typical cruise – it’s two epic journeys in one. First, it winds through some of Norway’s most jaw-dropping fjords and fishing villages. Then? Things get wild (and icy) as we enter true expedition territory in Svalbard.
🛶 Part 1: Norway Northbound — Kayaks, Huskies & Reindeer Tales
We left Trondheim behind and headed deep into fjord country, where the air got fresher, the skies stretched forever and every port stop felt like a fairytale.
First stop was Bodo where things got spiritual. We were welcomed into a Sami cultural village, warmed with reindeer broth and told stories of ancestral life above the Arctic Circle.
In Leknes, I spent the morning kayaking through a Lofoten dreamscape – glassy water, snow-topped peaks and red cabins clinging to the shore. It was the kind of silence that makes you forget your phone exists.
Next up: Tromsø, buzzing with Arctic cool. While some sipped lattes in hipster cafés, I went to meet 60 howling huskies at a sled dog training camp. Total joy.
We wrapped it up with a visit to the Tromso aquarium which had a great theatre showing us the landscapes and scenery of Svalbard.
In Alta we had a bracing arctic bike ride and visited the arctic cathedral – an ‘arctic-tectural’ wonder (well worth the visit) Glass, steel and soft organ music created a space that felt both futuristic and spiritual.
Then came one of my favourite hikes ever, out to Kirkeporten Rock in Skarsvåg, where the sea arch perfectly frames the North Cape cliffs. Windy, wet and wild but worth every step.
Even Hammerfest surprised me. This northernmost town in the world serves up arctic street art, microbreweries and yes – a polar bear club museum. Because of course it does.
Each day felt like a gentle unwrapping of the Arctic’s soul. Did I mention the food yet?
🐟 FOOD & DRINK: A Fish Lover’s Fantasy
If you love seafood, Atlas will ruin you (in the best possible way).
Every meal felt like a celebration of the Norwegian sea. Lobster, mussels, grilled halibut, cloudberry-topped salmon and the best bouillabaisse I’ve ever eaten.
The Madeira restaurant did fab buffets for breakfast and lunch, and elegant à la carte dinners (with amazing wine pairings, casual dress code, thank heavens).
Highlights? The live cooking station (hello, truffle pasta), the daily carvery… roast pork with crispy crackling and a great range of gluten-free, vegan and healthy options.
Paula’s Pantry became my daily fix: think wraps, pastries, good coffee, smoothies and cheeky juice shots. Plus, 24-hour room service (don’t miss the burgers).
This is an all-inclusive cruise unless you decide to splurge on the top shelf premium alcohol.
💃 ENTERTAINMENT: Better Than Expected (Much Better!)
Honestly, I wasn’t expecting much in the way of cruise-style entertainment, but again Atlas surprised me.
We had live musical nights, the hilarious Colombian land guide Andreas teaching salsa and a Broadway-worthy set from cruise director Greg (a former Broadway performer, of course he nailed it).
All this played out under the midnight sun in the glassy Dome Lounge, often with a Magellan Fire Margarita (my favourite cocktail of the day) in hand. I slept very little!
Oh, and when the Aussies onboard begged for the State of Origin rugby final, the crew made it happen in the theatre. Queensland won. Celebrations were loud.
❄️ Part 2: Into the Ice — My Svalbard Dreams Come True
Once we crossed into Svalbard, everything changed. The ship shifted into expedition mode.
We were fitted for lime green parkas (oddly flattering), kitted with wellie boots and briefed by the best expedition team – ornithologists, glaciologists, bear trackers and one very masterful French leader named Jonathan.
Each day was a blur of Zodiac cruises, hikes, glaciers and wildlife encounters. Puffins, seals, walrus pods the size of cars…and then the moment.
🐻 POLAR BEAR SIGHTING!
At 6:35am, Jonathan’s voice crackled over the PA: “Good morning, everyone. We have a polar bear off the starboard bow.”
Cue chaos. Guests running to top deck in parkas over pyjamas, binoculars flailing. And there it was – a distant custard–yellow blob prowling the ice, swimming even, and trying (and failing) to intimidate a walrus the size of a hatchback.
We gasped. We froze. We forgot breakfast entirely.
In the coming few days, more sightings followed: polar bears, arctic foxes, magnificent birdlife and even a walrus face-off I’ll be dining out on for years.
🥶 YES, I DID THE POLAR PLUNGE
I flung myself into freezing Arctic water – and lived to tell the tale. It was bracing, bonkers and brilliant, especially with the pre-plunge sauna and the tequila and vodka shots afterwards.
The spa, Technogym and Finnish sauna became part of my daily routine (got to balance all that food somehow).
❤️ THE CREW: Joy On Two Legs
From the dancing cleaner on Deck 7 (vacuuming to Donna Summer) to the ever-smiling barman who remembered my cocktail of choice, this crew was next-level. They made the ship sing and genuinely seemed to love their working life on board.
🌟 FINAL WORD
This cruise was everything I hoped for. I’ve fallen hard for expedition cruising and now have my sights set firmly on Antarctica.
As for the polar bear dream? Ticked. With joy.
How To Book: Call the Australian representative for Ocean Voyages, Cruise Traveller, on 1800 507 777, or visit www.cruisetraveller.com.au/atlas-ocean-voyages
