So there I was, riding a bright orange and yellow girls bike that was so old the wheels were square, trying hard not to let the saddle use my scrotum as a punching bag.
It’s been decades since my pushbike days and the muscles that have lain dormant in that time were letting me know just how unhappy they were with the current situation.
One pothole too many and my evolution from baritone to falsetto would be complete.
We’d driven about 30 minutes out of Pattaya to the Takhian Tia Community, an impressive and important facility that is working to preserve traditional Thai lifestyles, wisdom and culture while providing a sustainable income for the locals.
This area was once used for rice production, given the bountiful supply of natural water and favourable growing conditions, and some families have been farming here for three or four generations.
Over time the local farmers realised that it would also be an ideal spot to grow coconuts and so a whole new industry sprang up.
Coconuts became the economic backbone of the area, supporting local households and shaping the identity of the community. Sadly, many of the coconut farms have disappeared as owners sold their land to developers or moved to the city.
The community project we are here to visit started 14 years ago and is situated close to the only remaining coconut plantation left in the area, which does everything in an organic and sustainable manner.
Welcome To Takhian Tia
The name Takhian Tia means “house of a thousand poles” and the craftsmanship of the wooden architecture is impressive….as is the amount of awards that the project has won and which they, quite rightly, display in the reception area.
We are greeted by the founder of the project, Wandee, who promptly bursts into a welcoming song, accompanied by some of the staff, many of whom are volunteers. It’s a thoughtful and charming way to start our visit.
As the singing dies away, wea are presented with a mysterious-looking blue beverage which looks like a potion from Dr Frankenstein’s laboratory but is uber refreshing as the late morning heat starts to bite.
This is followed by a couple of coconuts treats – one a glutinous green concoction and the other a more chewable delight. Then comes the coconut coffee – instead of using milk, this brew uses fresh coconut water as a topping.
It’s very hot, it’s very sweet and it’s very distinctive…
What Is There To Do?
Visitors to Takhian Tia have a variety of activities at their disposal. There are demonstrations of therapeutic massage, you can craft ornamental flowers from pandan leaves, take part in tie-dying workshops using coconut shells, make soap using coconut oil and cycle around the coconut orchards.
We opt for the latter, hence my aforementioned precarious position in the saddle.
While the sun beats down we make our way through the surrounding countryside, pedalling through the lanes and fields, passing traditional houses as we go and soaking up the peaceful atmosphere. After the noise and bustle of Pattaya, it’s a welcome relief.
The cycling is easy going in parts and bumpy in others but generally anyone with a modicum of fitness will manage the journey.
Our guide for the ride is Sam (above), a sinewy septuagenarian with white hair, a cheeky smile and a glint in his eye. He’s sharp as a tack and was one of those who helped set up the project in the first place.
First stop is next to a lorry where a group of workers are chucking coconuts into the back of the vehicle, ready for transport to market. It’s hot, dirty, tiring work and you can see why many of the younger folk in the area have moved to Pattaya in seek of other jobs.
We’re glad to be back on the bikes and cycling through the coconut plantation, with the canopy providing a little shade from the midday sun. There’s a deep, earthy smell in the air and the only sounds are of the bike chain whirring and the occasional bird call.
As we go along Sam explains the lifecycle of the coconut plant and how good it is for the hair, skin and body while dogs, cockerels and the occasional cow watch on with total apathy.
At our next port of call we meet “Mrs Sam”, who makes all kinds of wonderful potions and lotions from…yes, you guessed it, coconuts. Body mist, lip balm, body powder, soap – you name it, it seems the coconut is the fruit that keeps on giving.
Our final stop sees a man with a very, very sharp blade cutting open some coconuts with a dexterity to be admired. We each take a straw and start supping on the juice within. I can feel my skin getting younger with each sip!
Back at the centre we have one last activity to complete. We’re given a plain, white bag and encouraged to decorate it with flowers and plants from the local area. This is a sustainable community so no chemicals are used…we just tape our selections to the bag and hit them with a wooden tube.
My resulting work of art is admirable but I don’t think Louis Vuitton will be knocking at my door anytime soon.
All too soon our time with the good folk of Takhian Tia comes to an end and we bid a fond farewell to Sam and the staff. It’s been entertaining, educational and rewarding, even if I do walk to the waiting van a bit like John Wayne…
Visitor Information
Opening Hours: 9am to 5om from Monday – Sunday.
Best Time to Visit: Travel is possible all year round.
Suitable for: Families, groups of friends, educational groups and organisations.
Accommodation: Homestay accommodation is available within the community.
Nearby destinations include: Pattaya Floating Market, Nong Nooch Tropical Garden, Pattaya Beach.
