Far North Queensland has a way of making a mockery of your itinerary… and I mean that as the highest possible compliment, writes Jenny Evans.
Yes, you could power through the reef, the rainforest, the waterfalls and the crocodiles on a tightly scheduled whirlwind. Plenty of people do. But this is a region that rewards people who resist the urge to tick and move on.
One day you’re drifting silently alongside a crocodile on the river. The next you’re snorkelling over giant clams on the Great Barrier Reef, or braking for a waterfall simply because it’s there and you can.
There’s no wrong way to do Far North Queensland. Just slower ways and faster ways, and slower wins every time.
While you can absolutely base yourself in Cairns and work through the region on organised day tours, having your own wheels makes an enormous difference. The freedom to stop at random beaches and roadside stalls is half the appeal up here.
Here’s what I’d put at the top of the list.
Cruise The Daintree River Looking For Crocodiles
Driving distance from Cairns: Approximately 2 hours
Crocodiles are not the only wildlife to see on the Daintree River
A crocodile cruise on the Daintree River is practically a rite of passage up here, but not all operators are created equal, and this is one experience where the details really matter.
One of the best on the river is Solar Whisper Eco Cruises. Unlike the larger commercial boats, Solar Whisper uses smaller, quieter solar assisted electric vessels that feel immersive. No noisy engines, no fumes, no waves slapping against the mangroves. Just the sounds of the river doing its thing around you.
Our guide David has spent more than two decades on the Daintree, and it shows in remarkable ways. He somehow spotted a 30 centimetre baby crocodile from what felt like half a football field away, while steering us calmly into narrow tributaries the bigger operators simply can’t access.
“After 21 years on this river I have come to know many of these creatures and their lives in a very intimate way.”
It’s this unhurried, respectful approach that makes the whole experience work so well. We saw everything from a massive 40 year old male basking on the bank to tiny hatchlings born only last year. Because the boat is silent, the wildlife behaves naturally and the encounters feel close without ever becoming intrusive.
Ride The Kuranda Scenic Railway And Skyrail
Driving distance from Cairns: Approximately 40 minutes to the Smithfield Skyrail terminal
We headed up to Kuranda by Skyrail and back down on the historic railway, but you can easily flip the journey or stick to one or the other.
The cable car glides over rainforest canopy, waterfalls and steep jungle covered ridges with the Coral Sea shimmering somewhere in the distance. Hop off at the stations along the way. The boardwalks offer a completely different perspective when you’re standing inside the rainforest rather than floating above it.
Kuranda itself is small enough to cover in an hour or two. The shops are fairly tourist driven, but the pub is a good spot to land and the mountain village atmosphere makes it easy to linger longer than intended.
The return journey on the Kuranda Scenic Railway feels entirely different again. The train snakes through tunnels, rattles across bridges and slides past waterfalls as it descends slowly back toward Cairns. The commentary along the way explains the remarkable history of the railway.
Cross The Daintree Ferry And Go Deeper Into The Rainforest
Driving distance from Cairns: Approximately 2.5 hours to the Daintree ferry
The moment you cross the Daintree River ferry, everything shifts. Roads narrow. The forest closes in around you. Mobile reception becomes a loose suggestion rather than a guarantee.
Spend a proper day in the Daintree Rainforest rather than just passing through it.
The Daintree Discovery Centre is an excellent place to start, as it puts the extraordinary age and biodiversity of this place into context before you head deeper in.
The Jindalba Boardwalk is one of the best short walks in the area, with towering fan palms arching overhead and that constant low level thrill of wondering if every rustle in the undergrowth might be a cassowary.
We didn’t spot one, or the tree kangaroos we’d been quietly hoping for, despite tramping along the walking trails with the kind of focused optimism that probably looks ridiculous from the outside.
We took it seriously though, picking our way slowly and stopping at every rustle, convinced the next bend would deliver. It never did. But that possibility is part of what makes the Daintree so compelling. It still feels properly wild.
We did see several butterflies drifting through the trees, including the electric blue Ulysses butterfly, one of those creatures that looks almost digitally enhanced against the deep green of the rainforest.
Spend A Day On The Great Barrier Reef
Departure point: Cairns Marina. Time to reef: Approximately 1 hour 30 mins on catamaran.
You can’t come to Far North Queensland and skip the Great Barrier Reef.
We headed out with Great Adventures, whose outer reef pontoon packages make the whole thing remarkably accessible. Stinger suits, snorkelling gear, a buffet lunch and morning and afternoon snacks are all included, along with a semi submersible ride and underwater viewing observatory for anyone not quite ready to throw themselves into open water.
The snorkelling area at the outer reef is enormous, with spectacular coral. My son managed to spot a reef shark, a jellyfish and a turtle in a single session, which is not a bad morning’s work.
The best tip I can give you? Get in the water the moment you arrive, while everyone else is still wrestling with lockers and adjusting their masks.
Then go back in immediately after lunch before the afternoon crowd builds. Both times we had huge sections of reef almost entirely to ourselves, which in a place like this feels like a privilege.
Swim At Mossman Gorge
Driving distance from Cairns: Approximately 1 hour 30 minutes
Mossman Gorge is basically nature’s air conditioning, and in Far North Queensland that is not a small thing.
Clear water tumbles over giant granite boulders beneath thick rainforest canopy, and even on hot tropical days, the water is shockingly cold. There are walking tracks through the surrounding rainforest if you want to explore properly, but honestly, half the joy is finding a good flat rock, sitting on it, and refusing to leave for an unreasonable amount of time.
Worth knowing: the current can be surprisingly strong in parts, particularly after rain. Read the conditions before you get in.
Stay Overnight On Green Island
Ferry departure: Approximately 45 minutes from Cairns
Green Island is close enough to Cairns that most people treat it as a day trip, but it becomes a completely different place once the last ferry leaves.
The island takes on a quiet, slightly surreal atmosphere after the day visitors head home. As I wrote in Green Island: Where The Turtles Rule And The Reef Is Your Backyard, the real magic begins once the island empties out for the evening.
If you can make it work, do it.
Chase Waterfalls On The Atherton Tablelands
Driving distance from Cairns: Approximately 1.5 to 2 hours depending on which falls you visit
If you enjoy turning waterfall chasing into a full day activity, the Atherton Tablelands will feel designed for you.
The region is loaded with swimming holes, volcanic crater lakes and rainforest framed cascades, all connected by winding country roads that are a pleasure to drive.
Millaa Millaa Falls is the postcard favourite, but there are dozens of lesser known spots where you can pull over, swim and carry on without much of a plan. The landscapes shift constantly between rainforest, farmland and volcanic lakes, and the drive itself is half the point.
Slow Down In Port Douglas And Palm Cove
Port Douglas
Driving distance from Cairns: Approximately 1 hour
Port Douglas is made for long lunches. Spend the afternoon wandering Macrossan Street, browse the boutiques, then settle into a seafood restaurant with a cold drink and nowhere else to be.
Palm Cove
Driving distance from Cairns: Approximately 30 minutes
Palm Cove Beach
Palm Cove is best saved for the evening. The palm lined esplanade, warm sea air and unhurried restaurants make it one of those places where dinner easily drifts well past sunset.
After several days of reef boats, rainforest walks and crocodile spotting, you’ll have earned it.
