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Tucked into Spain’s verdant Basque Country, Bilbao is a city that manages to feel both cosmopolitan and intimate.

Visiting in July, you immediately notice the difference from some of Spain’s more crowded summer hotspots: the streets are wide, flat and easy to walk, and there’s a gentler pace in the air.

While the temperatures are warm, the city doesn’t buckle under the same intensity of tourists that you find in Barcelona or Madrid this time of year.

Any trip to Bilbao begins with the Guggenheim Museum.

Frank Gehry’s glittering titanium masterpiece rises from the banks of the Nervión River like a futuristic sculpture, its twisting forms changing with the light.

Inside, the collections range from bold contemporary installations to thought provoking temporary exhibitions.

I will admit that much of it went right over my head (I am still not sure what to make of the giant deformed shuttlecock, for example) but the building itself is so extraordinary it hardly matters.

If modern art isn’t usually your passion, the architecture alone is an unforgettable experience and the famous Puppy, Jeff Koons’ giant floral dog sculpture, is a cheerful welcome at the entrance.

And don’t miss out on Maman, the towering spider sculpture that crouches on the riverbank, a strange and striking presence against the museum’s shimmering curves.

For something lighter, the Museum of Illusions offers an interactive escape into a world where nothing is quite as it seems.

Perfect for families or simply those wanting a laugh, its mind bending rooms and playful trickery contrast sharply with the Guggenheim’s gravitas, showing Bilbao’s ability to mix culture with fun.

Crossing into the Casco Viejo, or Old Town, you’ll find narrow lanes lined with colourful facades, independent shops and centuries old churches.

This is the beating heart of Bilbao and it is at its most atmospheric in the evenings. Locals spill out onto cobbled streets, hopping between bars for pintxos, the Basque answer to tapas.

Think fresh anchovies, creamy cod croquettes, or slices of jamón perched on bread, all washed down with a glass of txakoli, the region’s slightly sparkling white wine.

For a different perspective, take the funicular up Mount Artxanda. In minutes, you’re gazing out across the city, framed by green hills and the meandering river. Many visitors ride up and stroll back down the leafy paths, an easy descent that delivers you gently back into the city streets.

What stands out about Bilbao is how walkable it is. The boulevards are broad and flat, designed for wandering, and unlike Spain’s more frenetic cities, there is breathing room here. In July, when queues and crowds can dominate elsewhere, Bilbao feels refreshingly manageable.

Bilbao isn’t about ticking off monuments; it’s about atmosphere. It’s the sight of the Guggenheim glowing at sunset, the laughter over shared pintxos, the slow walk along tree lined avenues.

Visiting in July lets you enjoy a city in full summer swing, without the press of overwhelming crowds. Bilbao may not shout as loudly as Barcelona or Seville, but that is part of its charm. It whispers, it entices and by the end of your stay, you’ll find yourself wishing you had just one more evening to savour it.