Just when you think you’ve got to know a country, she throws something at you that’s a complete and utter delight.
I’ve been to the ‘Kingdom of Smiles’ more times than you can say “pad thai”. Along with the 800,000 Aussies who visit every year, it’s always been a fave destination.
Yet until recently I’d never been to Trat province…and that’s a real pity because as the locals like to tell you, this is the “real Thailand”.
Located in the eastern part of the country and sandwiched between the Gulf of Thailand and Cambodia, Trat is one of the smallest Thai provinces, known for its beautiful islands (all 52 of them!), rich history and local culture.
But while it may be small in size, it makes a big impression.
I was invited to visit as part of the ‘Meaningful Travel’ trade meet and famil organised by the Sydney office of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, who are keen to improve on the 4,000 or so Aussies who visited back in 2024.
Along with a handful of equally curious Aussie buyers, we would spend six days exploring the offerings of the three main islands: Ko Chang, Ko Mak and Ko Khoo.
What we discovered was an unspoilt, uncrowded and unhurried part of the country that offers rest and relaxation with capital R’s.
Ko Chang
I was surprised to learn that Ko Chang is Thailand’s third largest island after Phuket and Ko Samui. I was less surprised to learn that its name means ‘Elephant Island’ because of its shape…the Thais do so like to name things. 😉
The largest of the three islands we visited, Ko Chang is the ideal starting point for any exploration of the region. It’s the busiest of the islands in these parts with the pace of life getting slower and slower the further south you go.
Our incredibly helpful and ever smiling guide Bobo informed us that the island is 60 kilometres around and would take two hours to circumnavigate, given that most of it is still covered in dense rainforest.
Activities here include snorkelling, diving, mangrove walks, cooking classes, forest bathing, temples and trips to the local waterfalls.
If you love your seafood then the islands of Trat are the place for you. One of the definite highlights for me was lunch at Khao Kwan restaurant. The food was sublime – I’ve rarely seen such attention to detail – and the colours were kaleidoscopic. Our party almost forgot to eat they were taking so many food selfies.
Another memorable moment was a slow boat ride down the Phlu Canal followed by drinks & canapes on Klong Prao beach. This led to the first of many impressive sunsets which we witnessed during our visit.
Touring the island it struck me how relaxed and uncrowded it was, perhaps reminiscent of how Phuket and Ko Samui would have been 20 or 30 years ago. Only time will tell if Ko Chang heads down a similar path but for now it’s a delightful jumping off point for any exploration of Trat.
Where to stay
Apparently inspired by the movie Castaway, Dinso Resort & Villas is a five-star property that’s only a year-old yet impresses from the moment you check in. Perfectly located by the ocean and offering direct beachfront access, it is the ideal base from which to explore the island, particularly the Ko Chang Marine National Park.
This refined resort offers 162 spacious rooms and villas (the pool villas are magnificent), a massive pool, spa, gym and excellent dining, particularly in the beach club. Add to this thoughtful service and stylish design and you’ve got the perfect place to lay your head.
Special mention also to the Sylvan, another luxury property described as “Koh Chang’s premier beachfront retreat”. The views from the onsite café were memorable and the property oozed charm and sophistication…it even has its own funicular!
KO MAK
Tourism on Ko Mak only dates back to the early 80s when the first boatloads of European tourists arrived. Not much has changed in the intervening years…and that’s just how they intend to keep it.
One family has owned 90 per cent of the island for more than 100 years and one member of that family, Yodchai Sudhidhanakul, is president of the island’s tourism authority.
“When you own everything, you are much more in command of where you want to go and one of the things that has put Ko Mak on the map is that we are Thailand’s first low-carbon destination,” he explained when we met him over lunch.
Other sustainability initiatives include banning car ferries and 7-Elevens, using golf carts for transportation, promoting renewable energy, coral restoration (Mak has the third largest coral reef in Thailand) and maintaining a simple, community-focused lifestyle.
“This is an island that doesn’t have mass tourism…and we want it that way. We revel in the power of being average,” he added with a smile.
Despite this, tourism to Mak is healthy with all 750 hotel rooms on the island likely to be booked out during peak season (November-April) when the Europeans come here to escape the northern winter.
They are drawn by cultural activities like cooking classes and pottery making, or more active pursuits such as tennis and pickleball.
We tried our hands at a tie-dying workshop, which was surprisingly successful. The intricate designs created by our little group were commendable – there’s nothing like a personally made gift for a loved one back home.
Where to stay
Location, location, location. The Mak ticks all three boxes! My ocean view room afforded the soothing sound of the waves as I drifted off to sleep and a simple few steps to the almost deserted beach. The interior was fresh and modern and the bed was uber comfy.
Some of the rooms also have a viewing platform up on the roof which afford panoramic views of the incredible sunsets you get in these parts. There’s also a luxurious infinity pool with sweeping views and a three-storey bar and restaurant.
KO KOOD
There’s an old saying about saving the best for last and in my humble opinion this island was the pick of the three.
Ko Kood is actually bigger than Ko Mak and was named after the rubber plant which locals still milk in large quantities.
They only got electricity 10 years ago and it only takes an hour to get around the whole island…now that the roads have finally been completed. Once again the drawcard here is serenity, with waterfalls, forest walks, snorkelling, fishing and fresh seafood just some of highlights.
Many have compared the beaches here to those in the Maldives and it’s not hard to see why. Pure white sand and crystal clear water combine to make this an ideal spot for families, couples, honeymooners or anyone who likes to swim, snorkel, dive or pursue any other form of water sport.
We were treated to a half day snorkelling tour which began with yours truly trying (unsuccessfully) to master the art of squid fishing and ended on one of the aforementioned beautiful beaches – I’d love to tell you which one but apparently it’s “the beach with no name”.
As our time in Trat came to an end, there was no better place than this beach to reflect on the incredible time we’d had on these three islands which ask for so little but deliver so much.
If you’re looking for authentic Thailand, look no further.
Where to stay
Tolani Resort is yet another property that offers direct beach access and more glorious sunsets and sunrises than you can shake an alarm clock at.
Designed in Polynesian style, it offers a range of accommodation styles – my room was clean and comfortable and offered great views of the ocean and expansive landscape.
One of the highlights of our stay was the energetic fire show (see above) which took place while we chowed down on a delicious – and bountiful – dinner at Molano Restaurant.
Another special mention to the High Season Pool Villa & Spa, a five-star option on the island. Our welcome here was nothing short of spectacular and although I wasn’t one of the lucky ones to stay here, I could tell it was a fabulous experience.
https://www.tolanihotels.com/tolani-resort-koh-kood
Getting there: Thai Airways operates direct flights from Australia up to 12 times a week from Perth, Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. https://www.thaiairways.com/flights/en-au/
Bangkok Airways flies directly from Bangkok to Trat 12 times a week, with an average of two flights a day. Flying time is one hour. https://www.bangkokair.com/
Boat transfers are available to all three islands from Boonsiri High Speed Ferries & Catamarans. https://boonsiriferry.com/en
When to visit: Peak season for the islands is November to the end of February (apparently Ko Mak is booked out at this time until 2030!). The hot season stretches from March to April while Thai holiday season is April & May.
Images courtesy Carla Mangles
