I’ve just completed a seven-day famil through Uganda’s spectacular national parks with a group of Aussie and UK travel agents and every single day delivered the kind of moments that remind you exactly why we travel.
From on-foot rhino tracking and game drives to chimpanzee encounters and the ultimate wildlife experience – mountain gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – this journey has been nothing short of extraordinary.
Above: Jenny (centre) with her trekking crew
Our adventure began boarding a tiny Cessna Caravan flight into the south-western region of Uganda.
With a maximum of 11 passengers, it’s officially the smallest plane I’ve ever been on. There was much discussion (and slight panic) around the strict luggage allowance.
I quickly realised any dreams of bringing home oversized gorilla souvenirs would need revising!
Thankfully the flight was remarkably smooth and as we soared over mist-covered mountains and endless green valleys, the excitement onboard was palpable. Everyone was buzzing.
Landing safely, we transferred to the lake where traditional dugout canoes awaited us for a serene crossing.
In true Ugandan style there were cold beers and snacks waiting, instantly putting huge smiles on everyone’s faces. It was one of those magical travel moments – drifting silently across the water surrounded by rolling hills and volcanic peaks.
Our home for the next few nights was the magnificent Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge, perched high on a forested ridge with jaw-dropping 360-degree views over the Virunga Volcanoes, Bwindi Forest canopy and surrounding rural villages.
My room overlooked layers of misty mountains and every evening a real log fire was lit while a hot water bottle magically appeared in my bed at turndown. Add nightly fireside hot chocolates, warm hospitality and fabulous food and I was completely sold.
But nothing – absolutely nothing – prepared me for the gorilla trek a short distance away from our lodge.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is home to more than half of the world’s remaining mountain gorilla population and trekking here is genuinely one of the greatest wildlife experiences on earth.
After a detailed briefing from our head guide Emanuel, we were divided into two trekking groups: medium and easy. Naturally, I selected the “easy” group. Although once we started descending steep muddy slopes into the dense jungle I found myself repeatedly thinking, “Thank God this is the easy option!”
Luckily we each had porters and I cannot recommend this enough. My gorgeous porter Gloria – who looked about 14 but was actually a 29-year-old mother of three – was an absolute lifesaver, helping me navigate slippery ledges, tree roots and muddy drops.
The trekking poles gifted by the lodge also proved invaluable and have become one of my favourite souvenirs from the trip.
After hiking for over an hour through thick forest, Emanuel suddenly announced the trackers had located not one but TWO gorilla families. Twenty-four gorillas in total. The energy instantly changed as we hurried deeper into the jungle.
Then came the first gasp.
About 10 metres ahead stood a huge silverback gorilla. Massive. Powerful. My heart quite literally stopped.
But things escalated quickly when the trackers guided us to another clearing where an entire gorilla family was gathered – mothers with babies, curious juveniles tumbling through foliage and the dominant silverback sitting proudly among them. We were unbelievably close.
“Stay still. Stay quiet,” Emanuel whispered.
I stood frozen, completely transfixed. Then suddenly – and I mean suddenly – the silverback exploded into action and charged directly…… at me!!
Now, I know the official advice is to remain calm and stand still, but when 250 kilograms of charging hairy gorilla is heading your way, instinct completely takes over. I leapt sideways as Emanuel firmly commanded us not to move.
Thankfully the silverback stopped just short of us before calmly returning to his family. Apparently it was what’s called a bluff charge….
Easy for them to say. It took a solid five minutes for my body to stop shaking.
And just when we thought the excitement was over, another silverback from a neighbouring gorilla family appeared and absolute chaos erupted.
Footage copyright Fiona Harper
The two males launched at each other in an extraordinary display of dominance, punching, screeching and wrestling like heavyweight boxers while their respective families watched in a frenzy of fury around them.
Even Emanuel said in his 15 years of guiding he had only witnessed this behaviour once before.
It was raw, emotional, dramatic and one of the most extraordinary wildlife moments I have ever experienced.
The trek back out of the forest was exhausting, muddy and steep, but worth every single step.
Moral of the story?
Always choose the easy group!
CHIMP HEAVEN
If I thought the chimpanzees might somehow feel anticlimactic after the gorillas, I was very wrong.
Kibale National Park is home to one of Africa’s highest densities of primates, including Uganda’s largest population of chimpanzees.
After another thorough briefing, we headed into the rainforest with our lovely guide Grace and a couple of rifle-carrying trackers whose role, we were reassured, was simply to scare away any curious elephants.
The forest floor was slippery underfoot with thick vegetation, tangled roots and damp leaves covering the trail. Suddenly the silence shattered with deafening screeches echoing through the trees.
Chimpanzees everywhere.
Swinging through branches, grooming each other, playing, fighting, mating – and yes, even masturbating – all entirely unfazed by our presence.
The sounds were wild, chaotic and completely mesmerising. Unlike the gorillas, the chimps are constantly moving, creating this incredible immersive experience where you genuinely feel part of the forest around them.
Wandering among these extraordinary primates in their natural habitat was another genuine bucket-list moment and one that absolutely lived up to every expectation.
Tourist visas cost $US50 (approx. $AU70) and can be arranged online. Gorilla trekking permits are $US800 (approx. $AU1,100) and chimpanzee permits $US250 (approx. $AU350) and after experiencing both, I can honestly say they are worth every single cent.
For more info, visit: https://utb.go.ug/
