Having visited the country more than a dozen times, I thought I’d pretty much seen everything Thailand had to offer.
Two days in Khao Yai proved otherwise.
This is where Thais go to escape their crowded cities – to breathe clean, fresh air, switch off and get back to nature.
Driving through the region reminded me of some of Australia’s popular rural areas… just with slightly different vegetation and signs with squiggly writing.
So if you’re looking to swap bars and beaches for bucolic beauty, here are five things you can enjoy in Khao Yai.
- Explore Thailand’s first National Park
Founded in 1962 and the beating heart of the region, Khao Yai National Park is Thailand’s oldest and a UNESCO World Heritage-listed sanctuary.
Spanning more than 2,000 square kilometres, it features dense evergreen forest, sweeping grasslands and spectacular waterfalls (Haew Suwat, made famous by The Beach, is one of the most photogenic stops.)
The park is home to elephants, hornbills, gibbons, macaques, sambar deer, Asiatic black bears and even the elusive Indochinese tiger.
Unfortunately we didn’t have time to explore the walking trails that take visitors deep into the park, keeping our animal sightings down to four deer, one monkey and a plethora of butterflies.
Instead we joined the many locals enjoying the scenery and the fresh air while picnicking, barbecuing or simply watching the world go by in one of Southeast Asia’s most biodiverse pockets.
https://www.khaoyainationalpark.com/en
2. Enjoy dinner and a show at Midwinter
If the national park is the region’s wild soul, Midwinter Khao Yai is its romantic, theatrical heart.
This grand, castle‑like restaurant sits among rolling lawns and mountain views, lit at night by lanterns and live acoustic music (the singer performing for us did an admirable rendition of Adele’s Someone Like You – no mean feat!).
The architecture feels like a European manor house – arched windows, stone walls, turrets – yet the atmosphere is unmistakably Thai in its warmth and hospitality.
The menu blends Western comfort dishes with Thai favourites: slow‑cooked meats, wood‑fired pizzas, creamy soups and beautifully plated desserts.
Highlight for me was the musical light show that was beamed onto the façade of the building. Just a great place to eat, drink, listen and relax.
https://www.midwinterofficial.com/
3. Grab a glass at the PB Valley Khao Yai Winery
Established in 1989, PB Valley Khao Yai Winery was the first in the area and has gone on to prove that Thailand’s wine could be world‑class.
Today, the estate spans more than 400 hectares of vines, orchards and gardens framed by mountain ridges and produces 200,000 bottles a year, featuring rose, chenin blanc and shiraz.
We enjoyed a guided tour that took us through the vineyards, revealed the challenges of growing grapes in a tropical climate and offered a behind‑the‑scenes look at the production process before the best bit – a tasting of the product.
While there’s never a bad time to drink wine, the best time for travellers to visit PB Valley is November to March, which is the dry or winter season.
Editor’s note: When visiting, make sure to pat Lisa, who belongs to one of the winemakers and scoots along beside the tour vehicle. Too cute
4. Visit ‘Little Italy’ at Toscana Valley
Toscana Valley is one of Khao Yai’s most striking landmarks for one simple reason. It’s a slice of Italy in the middle of the Thai countryside…?
Visiting this sprawling Tuscan‑inspired village – complete with replica Leaning Tower of Pisa – is a bit like walking around a Hollywood movie set.
Think terracotta roofs, cobblestone lanes, bell towers and manicured gardens with a host of luxury residences, boutique hotels, cafés, restaurants and the scenic Toscana Valley Country Club.
Golfers will appreciate the 18‑hole course, which winds through rolling hills and offers some of the region’s best views. Families often come for the cafés, gelato shops and the relaxed atmosphere.
Even if you’re not staying overnight, it’s worth visiting for the architecture – and the sheer quirkiness – alone.
5. Play Charlie at the Chocolate Factory
Sweet‑toothed travellers will find their paradise at The Chocolate Factory, one of the region’s most popular stops.
Part café, part dessert laboratory, part restaurant, it’s a place where you can watch chocolatiers at work behind glass panels, crafting truffles, pralines and glossy chocolate bars.
Visitors can also take the opportunity (as we did) to try their hand at decorating one of the fabulous creations. While some of my party showed true promise, my effort looked more like a Picasso!
The menu is extensive: molten lava cakes, chocolate drinks, pastries, ice creams and beautifully packaged treats perfect for gifts.
It’s hard to leave without a bag of souvenirs but if you do, make sure to keep them cool. I bought a selection of choccies for my daughter but when I got them home they’d all melted together, like some grotesque art project.
Where to Stay
A first-class region demands a five-star hotel and the Intercontinental Khao Yai Resort is certainly that…with a delightfully quirky twist.
Opened in 2022 and designed by celebrated architect Bill Bensley, this whimsical retreat is partly modelled on the golden age of rail travel.
The property transforms upcycled train carriages into luxurious suites, each one styled as if it were plucked from a glamorous 19th‑century railway journey.
The theme unfolds the moment you arrive: ringing of a bell signifies the start of your “journey”. The railway station styled reception features station signage and vintage trunks while staff are dressed in conductor‑inspired uniforms.
The train‑car suites are the star attraction – rich woods, brass fixtures, deep soaking tubs (some have private pools) and panoramic windows that frame the surrounding greenery.
The resort’s signature restaurant Poirot is also housed inside a restored carriage and is recognised in the MICHELLIN Guide Thailand. There’s also a tea lounge, spa, pool, gym and kids club. The mini-tram that runs around the resort is also a nice touch while the hotel is also pet-friendly.
